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Two Days in Rainy Haridwar: What I Actually Did

By

Haridwar-ki-pori

Last week, I went to Haridwar for a short two-day break. I had no strict itinerary. I only wanted to spend some time near the Ganga, eat local food and walk around without rushing from one tourist spot to another.

I reached Haridwar early in the morning. It had rained before my arrival, so the roads were wet and the air was pleasantly cool. Outside the railway station, e-rickshaw drivers were calling for passengers, people were adjusting their luggage, and tea stalls were already crowded.

Day 1: Har Ki Pauri and Ganga Aarti

My hotel was near Upper Road. Since the room was not ready, I left my bag at reception and went out with an umbrella. I had kept my phone, wallet and charger inside a plastic pouch because the sky looked ready for another shower.

I stopped at a small shop for breakfast. The place was busy, and I had to share a table with two other people. I ordered aloo puri, jalebi and chai. The puris were hot, the curry was spicy, and the jalebi was fresh. It was a heavy breakfast, but I had no complaints.

From there, I walked towards Har Ki Pauri. The lanes became more crowded as I moved closer to the ghat. Shops on both sides were selling malas, brass items, prasad, framed pictures and plastic containers for Ganga water.

My shoes got wet within the first hour. I tried avoiding the puddles at first, but after some time, I stopped caring.

At Har Ki Pauri, the Ganga looked much stronger than I had expected. The water was fast and slightly muddy because of the monsoon rain. The stone steps were wet, so I walked slowly and stayed away from the edge. Police personnel and volunteers were also warning people not to enter unsafe sections.

I found a safe place to sit for some time. Temple bells were ringing behind me, people were offering flowers, and the smell of incense kept mixing with the smell of wet stone. It was not completely peaceful because the ghat was busy, but sitting there still felt good.

Afterwards, I walked through the market and bought two rudraksha bracelets, a small brass diya and some prasad. The shopkeeper wrapped everything in newspaper and added a plastic bag after looking at the clouds.

Around noon, the rain suddenly became heavy. I took shelter under a small tea stall along with several other people. Everyone moved a little to make space. The tea seller asked, “Chai bana doon?” Nobody said no.

Standing under that tin roof with hot chai in my hand became one of my favourite moments of the trip. Nothing special happened. We simply watched the rain and waited.

I had a basic lunch of dal, rice, roti and vegetables before returning to the hotel. After resting, I planned to visit Mansa Devi Temple, but the ropeway service had been paused because of the weather. I waited for some time, but the rain continued and the queue was getting longer. Finally, I dropped the plan.

In the evening, I reached Har Ki Pauri early for the Ganga Aarti. The crowd increased quickly. There were umbrellas everywhere, children trying to see over people’s shoulders, and families protecting their prasad from the drizzle.

When the Aarti started, the sound of bells and chanting covered almost every other noise. The large lamps looked beautiful against the cloudy sky, and the smaller diyas floating near the ghat added a warm light to the dark water.

I did not have any dramatic spiritual experience. I just stood quietly and watched. For those few minutes, I was not thinking about work, pending calls or what I had to do after returning home. That itself felt enough.

For dinner, I eat khichdi and curd near my hotel. My legs were tired and my shoes were still damp, so I returned to the room early.

Day 2: Kankhal, Roadside Chai and a Quieter Ghat

I woke up before six in the morning. I could hear temple bells, vehicle horns and rainwater dripping outside the window.

After getting ready, I went for a short walk near the Ganga. Har Ki Pauri was much calmer than the previous evening. Shopkeepers were removing plastic covers from their counters, priests were preparing for the morning rituals, and a few visitors were already taking photographs.

I bought kulhad chai from a roadside stall. A cow was standing in the middle of the lane, two dogs were sleeping under a closed shop, and everyone was simply finding their way around them.

Later, I took an e-rickshaw to Kankhal. Traffic was slow in a few places, and the journey took around half an hour. The driver told me that rain makes his work unpredictable. Sometimes passengers disappear, and sometimes one shower brings everyone out looking for a ride.

At Daksh Mahadev Temple, the floor was wet and slippery. I left my footwear outside and walked carefully. There were also some monkeys near the temple boundary. I kept my food inside my bag and did not go close to them.

After visiting the temple, I walked through the nearby lanes. Kankhal felt less touristy than the Har Ki Pauri area. There were old buildings, local shops and quieter residential streets.

I had planned to visit another temple, but a sudden shower changed that. I took shelter outside a closed shop with a family from Meerut. Their young son was irritated because his slippers were full of muddy water. All of us laughed because our own footwear was in almost the same condition.

Once the rain became lighter, I returned towards central Haridwar. I eat aloo tikki chaat and had a glass of lassi. After that, I walked towards Vishnu Ghat and sat there for some time.

It was less crowded than Har Ki Pauri. A few families were performing rituals, an elderly priest was arranging flowers, and local people were moving through the area without any hurry. I sat there for nearly fourty minutes, doing nothing except watching the river.

Before leaving, I went back to the market and bought peda, a small bottle for Ganga water and a wooden toy for my child. My final meal was simple rajma rice near the railway station.

What the Trip Cost for Me

Excluding major shopping, my total expense was around Rs. 4,000 to 6,000:

  • Train travel: Rs. 1,500 to 2,000
  • One-night hotel stay: Rs. 1,500 to 2,500
  • Food and snacks: Rs. 800 to 1,100
  • Local transport: Rs. 400 to 700
  • Prasad and small purchases: Rs. 500 to 1,000

Prices may be higher during weekends, festivals and the Kanwar Yatra period.

A Few Practical Monsoon Tips

Carry an umbrella or light raincoat, an extra pair of socks and a waterproof pouch for your phone and wallet. Wear footwear with a proper grip because the ghat steps become very slippery.

The Ganga current is extremely strong during the monsoon. Follow local warnings, stay within designated areas and use the safety chains where available. Do not enter the water just because you see other people doing it.

My trip did not go exactly as planned. I missed Mansa Devi, spent most of the time in wet shoes and had to cancel one place on the second day. Still, I returned home feeling lighter.

Haridwar gave me crowds, rain, traffic, good food and a few quiet moments near the river. For a two-day break, that was more than enough.

Thank You!

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